When it comes to fashion, men are having all the fun

As I begin my annual rereading of Yuval Noah’s Sapiens, a random page appears with Barack Obama and Louis XIV. The Sun King, with his bouffant velvet cape adorned with gold fleurs-de-lis and high-heeled shoes, resembles a delicious French pastry. This is in stark contrast to Obama, who wears a navy blue suit. Harari, a historian, gives a stunning coup de grace in the caption: “Dominant Men have never looked so dull and dreary today.”

This was written in 2011, thankfully. Over a decade after that, the menswear industry and its audience are free from the tyranny of navy suits and tan shoes. Before you accuse them of sensationalism, please remember that Obama caused international controversy in 2018 because he wore an ecru shirt to a media briefing. Some of the most interesting figures in our mood boards today include men, including Vijay Varma and Jeff Goldblum.

Rahul Vijay, a celebrity stylist, says that the only woman he works with is Athiya, and she wears only menswear. He agrees that more women are “looking to menswear as inspiration”–YSL went viral because of this–but that “the big difference between ’80s power dressing and today is that women just want to feel and look sexy on their own, and they don’t have anything to prove”. Vijay attributes this appeal in part to designers such as Kanika Goyal, Chitose Abe (Sacai), and Emily Bode Aujla(Bode), who are bringing a feminine touch to menswear.

Hamilton’s Instagram feed is my go-to for inspiration whenever I need some styling ideas. Hamilton refuses to follow gender stereotypes in his clothing, even though he is the most recognisable figure of a sport that is overwhelmingly male. What is my current favourite? The pairing of his cotton-candy soft Dior top, in a diaphanous shade of blue, with white Bvlgari shades and enough jewellery to make Maharaja Bhupinder of Patiala look like a minimalist. Eric McNeal influences his choices. They range from a black sequinned Rick Owens Jumpsuit to a forest-green velvet parka that has Takashi Murakami’s psychedelic flower designs creeping up his arms.

This cocktail of playfulness, rebellion, and swagger is reflected in the wardrobes and styles of Dominant Men Varma and Dosanjh. It’s no wonder they are at the top of the best-dressed list. Varma wore a sheer ruffled top under a taupe cropped coat and matching pants to a Dior event. What’s the final touch? The CD brooch with pearls would have been just as at home on Jackie Kennedy’s lapel.

Dosanjh is a Punjabi symbol of masculinity who shares this love of pearls. While his peers opt for the comfort of athleisure clothing, Dosanjh cements his status as a performer by wearing sheer Marine Serre tops and Bode crochet shirts, along with Chanel cropped jackets. The pearls are a constant in his outfits.

No coincidence, these men who we’d like to raid have a good reputation when it comes to treating women. Dosanjh’s alpha-male status is not threatened by his vocal defence of his female supporters, whether they are farmers who sit in protest or girls who weep at concerts. Varma is a true gentleman who puts ladies first and opens doors for them. Pascal is not only a pleasure to work with but also uses his voice as a champion for reproduction rights and trans rights. He was most recently the red carpet stylist for his sister Lux, who came out in 2021 as trans. A man who is unafraid of female energy will be able to rock a Margiela vest with a micro-pleated detail or a Gucci silk shirt in buttery softness. The brands intended for these pieces to be worn only by men, but I would be willing to lend them to Pascal if he ever wanted to do a clothing swap.

BOLD MOVES

Shaleena Natani, the stylist behind Deepika Padukone’s and Shah Rukh Khan’s wardrobes, explains that “we’re really breaking boundaries” because silhouettes, colours and cuts are no longer gender-specific. In fact, Nathani’s current choice for the best-dressed male international is Brad Pitt. He benefited from a recent fashion renaissance, The Standards, called ‘Bohemian Brad,’ which featured linen suits in vibrant colours such as tangerine or cantaloupe and his skirt moment in Germany.

If I had to be reductionist, I would wager that the diverse sample of men is backed by emotional intelligence and a sense of security that permeates their work and clothing. The Dominant Men today seem to be a group of men who seem to be completely comfortable wearing their hearts on their sleeves—Loewe sleeves, especially.