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Fashion commentators, Kim Russell and Odunayo Ojo talk about archival moments and the future of design

Kim Russell and Odunayo Ojo, seated in Perth and London — two distant corners of the globe — are part of a young generation of fashion creators. They are known as The Kimbino or Fashion Roadman. These self-proclaimed historians uncover long-lost fashion lore through their videos. Russell’s Photoshop skills are legendary, but she is also known for her freewheeling runway critiques. The creative’s Instagram page is filled with cheeky ideas, from announcing herself as Time’s Person Of The Year to pretending to style Beyonce for Alaia. Ojo, on the other hand, is a researcher who has a mission of giving underrated talent a chance to shine. He has also published The Ultimate Fashion E-book, a beginner’s guide to surviving in the world of fashion.

Russell, 29, found that Tumblr was her portal to the archives during its prime. Ojo’s desire to learn about the past began after a friend donned a Yohji-Yamamoto tee. “I read Alexandra Shulman’s British Vogue, and there was no one who looked like me. They were all white.” “I knew I had carve my own way, says the 27-year-old over a video chat while his counterpart nods in approval from another time zone. The knowing smiles and witty banter that an observer could interpret the two exchange as a warm friendship. Russell and Ojo, despite sharing a similar niche, have never gone beyond passive Instagram likes until today.

Odunayo Ojo: When people see a vintage dress on Zendaya, they are forced to learn more about the designer who made it or the context in which it was worn. Archives help us to be more educated and curious about fashion.

Kim Russell: Archives make you feel like a part of something greater. The golden age of [Alexander] McQueen, [John] Galliano and other designers is special because it brings back memories of a more risk-taking fashion era. Even the biggest companies were willing and able to take a risk on young models. They let them be reckless, regardless of their attitudes or personal lives. We’re all feeling a bit of FOMO because we missed out on experiencing that energy.

What is an archival piece of fashion that you can rent out in your mind? Who would you want to see wearing it?

Russell: McQueen. I wouldn’t bastardize it. They should be left alone because that is art to me. Do you remember when Ariana Grande wore a Givenchy gown that was 60 years old at the Wicked Press Tour? It’s a very old dress.

Ojo: It belongs in a gallery, and people should leave it alone. Galliano revealed in an interview that he had discovered something about Madeleine Vionnet and her use of the bias cut. Imagine that after all his years of designing, he found something brand new. If people destroyed Vionnet’s 1970s clothing, we would not have a good reference to use for designers. There’s a practical reason, too, why Kim Kardashian shouldn’t wear dresses that aren’t able to be studied once she’s worn them.

VI: What is original fashion? Does it matter?

Ojo: Nothing is truly unique. Our experiences influence us. There’s one way to create originality: by referencing. Like Yohji Yamamoto said: “Copy, copy, copy, and you’ll find yourself at the end.”

Russell: It’s important. We need to find new references for the next generation. Rihanna has been a major influence on our generation, and Ayo Edebiri is also a great reference. She is a master at borrowing from the past but still looks original.

Russell: I find it positive because everyone is on the same page and uncertain of what will happen next, and this allows for free reign. Matthieu [Blazy] ‘s appointment at Chanel is important, as he values art and what artisans can create. I hope Dilara [Findikoglu] does something great.

Ojo: I am slowly seeing opportunities for young talent. The big houses are changing. Sean McGirr and Sabata De Sarno are among the new faces that have been given a shot.

Russell: I’ve got two words for you: anarchy and revolution.

Ojo: I made my first YouTube video in my bedroom, talking about runways. I was inspired to take my work seriously when I met designers who had watched my videos a few years after. This was my greatest learning. Earlier, very few people created videos on fashion analysis and business. Now, there are a lot of people who want to learn, and I think that’s a good thing.

Russell: I had to learn as well. In the beginning, I was very harsh and extreme. Now, I realize that it is important to maintain a healthy balance and criticize responsibly.

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Daniel S. Williams

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