May 23, 2025
Good morning! Michael here, and it’s an absolutely beautiful day. Barbour is one of the world’s most famous jacket manufacturers.
It’s also my first Barbour jacket review. To say that I am excited is an understatement.
Overview and Initial Thoughts
This article will cover a lot, but we will focus on silk oil and thornproof wax. What does this mean? Barbour offers two different wax jackets. They’re a hot topic. There’s something I don’t know, but I will let you know later.
I will let you know the results of my waterproof or resistance test, which I conducted in the shower. We will talk about fit, the Bedale, and why I chose classic. Then, we’ll go into all the details of a Barbour jacket, including why you should get the hood. Today is going to be an amazing day!
Sizing
I bought the classic Bedale, and just to set this up, Barbour jackets have a British connotation. I’m not sure about the Bedale, but I’m also not certain about the ivy/prep association with Barbour jackets.
I know Barbour gave you this pin with their name on it. Some people wear it, some don’t. I’m not sure if it’s scandalous, but I think so. But I will put it on my collar.
I bought the Bedale. Ashby is a slimmer, more modern version. The Bedale regular cut was the best choice for me because I wanted to wear this jacket my whole life. I would eventually gain weight and develop a small pouch. It’s a bit oversized.
When I tried this jacket on, I also brought along a flannel shirt and a sweater. I tried both of them on as I wore the coat. As soon as I put on the Ashby, I felt my flannel. When I put on the Bedale, I thought I’d forgotten to put on the flannel.
It’s funny; the entire point of this section was to discuss sizing. Let’s talk about the sizing. I am 5’9″, weigh 150-something pounds, and chose a 36. I usually wear a size 38, but this time, I went with a 36. I still have plenty of space, so I recommend going down a size if you cannot try the item on. This is what I did.
Sylkoil and Thornproof
Now, we’re going into the woods to see what will happen if I step through the thorns. If you have done more than just superficial research on Barbour, then you will know that the jackets come in two different finishes: silk oil and Thornproof. There is a lot of debate about the differences between the two.
The difference between the two jackets is also the subject of much debate. Why is one thornproof and the other not? What does this mean? After doing some research, I believe I know. As I mentioned before, I could not find all the information I needed, but I think that the difference is in the way the cotton is processed.
There are two types of cotton processing – thornproof and silk oil. Sylkoil was the original Barbour finish, which is made from uncombed cotton. You can tell if a Barbour jacket has uncombed cotton by the difference in texture between silk oil and thornproof.
When the wax is removed, the jacket’s cotton texture looks fluffy and fuzzier without the wax.
We will discuss how cotton is treated. Let me start with something I don’t understand—Barbour may use two different blends for silk oil and thornproof in terms of proofing. The silk oil coats do have a gloss. They appear a bit oily.
The oil will rub off the jacket at first, but it will eventually wear out. Thornproof is different – it’s waxier and looks more glassy. So, I’m not sure if the two blends are different when they leave the factory. But I know that you always use the same Barbour product to rewax the jacket.
Now, let’s get to the main event – thornproof or sylkoil? Imagine two things: a loosely knitted fisherman’s sweater and a piece of glass. It’s an extreme example, but you get the idea. Imagine you are walking through thorns, but one person is wearing glass and the other a fisherman’s sweater.
The thorns snag on the loops in the sweater of the fisherman as he pushes through the woods. A person going through the woods with a pane of glass is able to make it right past all the thorns because it doesn’t get snagged. It’s glass so that it will go through.
This is an extreme version of the thornproof jacket. Cotton is treated in two ways. Thornproof jackets have a glass window. Sylkoil uses unshorn cotton, which has more character, more texture, and less processing. As I mentioned, when the jacket’s finish starts to wear away, it looks fluffier and less smooth.
The cotton is then combed, calendered, and flattened. It is then put through the calendar process, which involves two very hot rollers. This process compresses and seals the weave.
All those threads are getting closer and closer together. It’s so close that it looks glassy on one side. This, when combined with wax, makes the jacket extremely smooth. It’s even closer to the glass pane effect where, when you walk over a thorn, it does not snag or go through the jacket.
My jacket was fine when I played in the thorns. It’s a bit scratched. The tighter weave gives you more wind and water resistance. Michael, I know you’re thinking, “Michael! This jacket has so many different details!” You can give us an overview of the jacket. Sure, why not?
Details Details Details
It’s so modular, has many different features, and is very detailed. This jacket quickly became my favourite. Let me tell you more about it; then, we can move on to other things. I will talk more about the jacket. Barbour jackets are known for their bottle opener zipper. What’s up? Barbour Bar—Welcome!
You’ll see that the collar is made of corduroy and has metal on it. It’s because the hood snaps on. I recommend getting it because, for me, a Barbour without a hood works fine when it is clear. You’ll want it on any other day since hats aren’t worn as often. I think the hood should be included with the jacket. Not attached to it, but simply with it. This jacket would also look great with a baseball cap.
This jacket has a tartan lining, which is made of thick, coarse fabric. The material is not smooth but heavy, woven fabric that will last a long time. Barbour offers a fantastic repair program that will fix any rips and even add different-coloured patches to the jacket so it becomes more unique as you wear it.
The jacket is not fully lined. You’ll also notice zippers on the side. This is to zip in the quilted lining. They used to come with a synthetic fur lining so that you could wear them longer into the season. I won’t be buying one because I prefer to wear a sweater. The jacket is well-made, with every detail being thought out. For example, the Bedale has knit storm cuffs, while the Ashby does not. This means that if you’re in the rain and have to raise your arms, the water won’t run down your sleeves.
What annoys me every day is the lack of a weather flap on my Taylor Stitch Winslow Parka. This jacket has a flap that you can use to prevent water from leaking through the zipper.
Two other snaps are there, which I didn’t realize for a moment, but then I figured it out. The snaps are for the throat latch. When it rains, you can pop up the collar corduroy and close it so that water won’t enter as easily.
The jacket also has two hand warmer pockets lined with moleskin at the top. These are great. The pockets keep your hands warm, but you can also put your hands into the large dumpy pockets at the bottom.
The jacket is a great investment. The coat is well-executed and has been given a lot of thought. The stitching, fabric, and other details of this garment are all excellent. I love, love, love it! I would marry it!
Durability and Waterproofing
The Patina Effect
As we are here, there is a Catch-22 when it comes to the Barbour patina. It’s famous for its patina, which allows you to see the different colours and shades of green.
Waxed jackets are not water-resistant as they should be. You get the look but lose some of the functionality. I’m in the same camp.
Water Resistance Testing
Okay, so I put the jacket in the bath and stood inside it to see what happened. Many people claim that they are not waterproof or even water resistant. This is not always true. The wax level on your jacket will determine its stage.
If you just weatherproofed a new jacket, it will be water-resistant. If you haven’t worn it in a few years and it is starting to change colour or turn lighter green, then it will not be as water-resistant, water-resistant or waterproof. Water will seep right through. This jacket is fantastic—a rain shower simulates a downpour, and it didn’t leak. The coat is impenetrable because it has been re-oiled and waxed.
I read a story. I believe it was from a fishing diary. He basically said the worst storms were when the water finally penetrated your oil skins. These are oil skins. Then, you would be cold, soaked, and wet. Oil skins are not waterproof, but they are extremely, very, water-resistant if they are treated properly.
I assume you’ll still be fine in a heavy downpour. You may hear a lot about how you’ll be fine, but that’s because people don’t maintain their jackets. For the most part, you’ll be fine. This jacket feels like one I would want to carry with me wherever I go. It feels like a friend. It feels like a friend.
Final Thoughts
You will love this jacket more and more the more you wear it. That’s why Barbour is my favourite. If you’re on the fence about getting one, I recommend you do it—they are great, and so are you!
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