Louis Vuitton Presents a Cast of Traveling Characters for Fall

Nicolas Ghesquiere recreates “the busy atmosphere of a Parisian railway station” at Paris Fashion Week.
Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter Show 2025 was opened with the sound and lights of a revving engine. Set designer Es Devlin created a space that looked like a train station. Models raced along the runway. According to the notes of the collection, the structure was intended to represent an area where “fleeting memories are shared between strangers, weaving stories”. Only these travellers appeared to come from a faraway land that defies space, time and conventional style.
The latest show was not surprising for a brand that uses travel as a starting point in all its aesthetic decisions. The models walked the runway in Nicolas Ghesquiere’s futuristic,’ 80s-inspired silhouettes, which reject trends. There were bejewelled yoke Velvet dresses, neck ruffs and buffalo plaid black-and-white capes.
Blink-and-you’ll-miss-it details were all there and felt like a nod to personal style and layering on the go. The models carried large bags, and their hands were kept in their jacket pockets. Over the arm, blanket scarves are worn. Scarves featured logo monogram pockets. Casual shirts and henley button-down tops were embellished with crystal embellishments. Statement hats were everywhere. The accessory was one of the most striking pieces of the collection, from leather baseball caps to exaggerated bucket toppers, wide brims, and tiny sculptural berets. The bag used to close the show was designed like a Parisian Street Light. In light of the news that Pat McGrath will be launching a Louis Vuitton beauty line, one face featured a striking colorblock New Wave contour.
The wardrobe heroes of the day, which would normally be relegated to everyday items, were elevated to main characters. Think about thick black leather belts that cinch tulle dresses with tiers or the weekender bag in full view. The chunky, big bangles were reminiscent of the mid-2010s’ maximalist style, as seen in Man Repeller’s trademark arm party. Blazers took on a new look with their thick shoulders and square silhouettes.
Highlight was the final walk when models posed against the windows of the building, facing the runway. This was reminiscent of Ormond Gigli’s 1960 photograph “Girls in the Windows”. Like the collection, the women in the iconic image each wore a unique outfit and posed differently, alluding to whatever their perceived personalities might be. Louis Vuitton’s fall collection makes one thing clear: We are in an era where we wear our emotions on our sleeves. Dressing up is more soul-affirming in the post-minimalist world. Daring to wear personality feels like a small rebellion.